The Roll and the Rye
Where to turn when we craved matzo ball soup and the comfort of a Jewish Deli, my close friend Rabbi David Goldhirsch of course. Living in Los Angeles for oh so many years now, I have discovered that certain factions of Jews frequent or should I say attend only certain deli's and crossing over to a different deli is only something a goy could get away with lest be chastised by some eccentric aunt proclaiming that isn't "OUR" deli. RDG is of Russian heritage and I suspected his suggestion would have eastern european roots that run deep in some blood red river like say . . . borscht.
I'd heard of Roll and The Rye for many years but always assumed it was in Carson or Inglewood. RDG had never spoken of the food only of how he took his 89 year old mother there as it was "her" deli. He did once say he saw Adam Sandler eating there with his family. Good enough for him maybe but for Honor and Bridget, we had to find out.
I was shocked to find it on the corner of some strip mall in Culver City (with ample free parking, the beloved Jr's had given in to the westside trend of charging for parking over an hour). Inside there were a fair amount of booths. What struck me immediately was the size of the place. Much smaller than I was expecting and at best half the size of Juniors.
We mentioned we were currently "deli-less" and our waitress was very pleasant and understanding. While compassionate over the demise of Juniors, she explained that she had worked there for 15 years before coming over to The Roll and the Rye. I sensed there was no love lost between the two. She explained that several of the cooks on staff that night had also been one time employees of Juniors. The information was bitter-sweet as I'd hoped the food might be comparable. She went on about football and wanted anyone but that Brady guy to win, hoping for a San Francisco winner. It struck me as odd that she was talking football. I know few women that give a hoot about the game and fewer still that talk it while waiting on tables. At Juniors, we felt lucky if the waitress would even say hello. I'd always assumed rudeness was just part of the whole New York scene. Had we been mistreated unnecessarily for so long?
Bridget L'chaim was thrilled to be in her comfort zone, a booth in a Jewish deli about to order soup. The menu was far less complicated than Juniors but still with the items essential to being a good deli, Matzo brie, borscht and half sandwiches.
The soup was a much larger bowl than we were used to and a welcomed change. Inside were two huge matzo balls which caused BC's eyes to bulge as the steam vaporized befoe her face bringing her senses to pleasant overload. They offered bread or bagel chips and we said both with Challah, if possible. She brought plenty of both.
The matzo balls were less salty than Jr's and quite good.
Soup alone does not make a deli. What about the pickles?
We are not looking for a replica of Jr's, just a place that can be passed from generation to generation is all we ask. The Roll and The Rye serves pickles with pickled green tomatoes. A very nice touch, classy even and the pickles were crisp and juicy.
I ordered a salad which no goy would ever do but I'm a freak and prefer to eat healthy (yes even in a deli). My salad had old school iceberg lettuce in it but also mixed greens. None of it was brown on the edges and considering it was evening held merit. The vinegar and oil was a bit out dated.
All in all it was a very positive experience and one that offered hope that things might not be as bad as we'd first thought.
We have returned a few times to make sure it wasn't a one off. It has held up well.
Just a quick note though and although I would never order it, my eyes have devoured several times now their cinnamon rolls. The look huge and covered in about two inches of pure white sugar frosting. Growing up in the Mahone household we had a saying: "It isn't a meal without a desert". The cinnamon rolls look like they would more than meet that requirement.
Up Next:
The Goy Guide to Jewish Deli's Los Angeles goes to Beverly Hills.
